
This spring, Alex Usherwood (middle) and I (far right) joined Kaldi’s Coffee head roaster, Dale Bassham (mid right), on a trip to Costa Rica to visit the famed coffee estate, Hacienda La Minita, which means “small mine.” After two days in San Jose, we met up with Dancing Goat's green-buyer Bob Benck (far left) and the Atlanta Roastery Manager, Brad Lawrence (mid left). Dancing Goats has been buying coffee from La Minita since 1992, and Bob's been visiting the farm for almost two decades - his knowledge and respect for the farm shone through as he helped us learn the history and current state of coffee growing in Costa Rica.

Recapping a trip like this is a daunting task, so I’m going to break our visit into three sections. I hope you'll enjoy them all, but here are links if you want to skip to the farm or the mill:
Part 2: On the Slopes of Tarrazu
Part 3: From Cherry to Cup, At the Processing Station (Coming in September!)
Bonus: See more pictures across multiple Instagram posts here.
We dropped toward the earth quickly, our right wing dipping to prepare the approach, and the mountains of Costa Rica came into view for the first time. Rising up around San Jose and the central valley, the mountains sat lush, volcanic, like a promise of our destination, reaching toward us as we gazed down at them.

Before we would reach the mountains in Tarrazu though, I'd scheduled an extra day for us in San Jose. Tourists typically land and immediately leave the capitol for the beaches, volcanos, mountains, and retreats around the country, but we gave ourselves a full day to explore and enjoy the bustling city.

After settling into our downtown hotel, tucked on a busy side street near the city’s central market, we spent our first evening at an open air restaurant before walking the length of Central Avenue, which was a pedestrian-only road filled with shops, street vendors, and music.

When you’re traveling with a coffee crew in a new city, it’s guaranteed that an early morning search for coffee is in the cards. After a traditional Costa Rican breakfast of rice, beans, eggs, and plantains at the Grand Hotel, we found a delightful cafe serving amazing coffee just a few blocks away. La Mancha felt open and breezy, welcoming, and served deliciously sweet coffee from Tarrazu, the region we’d be traveling to the next day. 5 stars: dreamy and delicious.


Since we’d had about 6 cups of coffee each by this point, we were ready to head out and walk across the city.

We’d agreed to visit the Costa Rican Art Museum which sits just across a large city park from the national stadium, home of Los Ticos, the Costa Rican National Football (soccer) Team. These things may seem unrelated, but are definitely two of my loves. The museum itself was San Jose’s original airport terminal and was a work of art in itself.


The 2 mile trek, followed by a bit of a wander through the park, left us ready for a little treat, so we stopped for ice cream at a sidewalk cafe. At this point, I’d let you know that none of us spoke Spanish well, but it wasn’t an issue during our time in San Jose. The people were understanding and spoke wonderful English, though I did resolve to learn some Spanish ahead of future trips to non-English speaking countries (update: I just completed Spanish I at SLCC this summer).


Next, we headed back across San Jose to visit the National Museum of Costa Rica, where we marveled at their butterfly house, archeological displays, and learned more about the history of the country. Originally a barracks, now a museum with a butterfly house, featuring a prominent shelter modeled after a Diquís (“great waters”) sphere. I wished we’d started here, as there was so much to read and enjoy, but the museum closed at 4:30 and we ran out of time!

The shelter in front of the museum houses a Diquís sphere, many of which were displayed on the museum grounds and indoors as well. These spheres date back as far as 300 CE and are thought to have lined the paths to chieftains’ shelters on the southern coast in the Diquís culture.


It was fascinating, at both museums, to see and learn the history of colonialism and coffee in the countries development, art, and culture. Costa Rica first exported coffee in 1820, but over the next century, it accounted for 90% of all exports.


I know it’s common to fly into San Jose and immediately head to a coast, volcano, nature preserve, or mountain, but I’d absolutely recommend spending 2-3 nights in the city to get a different view of life in Costa Rica.


Another gorgeous sunset in the city, another walk through the bustling streets at night, before the morning was upon us again and it was time to taxi out to meet Bob and Brad at their hotel near the airport. From there, we left the city and headed into the mountains, stopping at a coffee co-op for a tasting and tour, then up, up into the hillsides of Los Santos and our first glimpse of the beauty that is Hacienda La Minita.


Get the coffee here or read on in Part 2 here